A Closet That Is Too Small for Your Wardrobe

Closet planning

Why small closets feel even smaller than they are

Many closets from earlier decades were built around a single rod and a single shelf. That arrangement wastes much of the volume, because the area below the clothes, the space above the shelf and the corners behind the door all sit unused or stuffed. A closet that looks tiny may hold much more once its interior is reorganized.

Other closets really are too small. A household that has grown, a bedroom shared by two people, or a wardrobe with more variety than the original design expected can all outgrow a closet no matter how cleverly it is arranged. In that case, the choice is between editing what you own, adding storage elsewhere or enlarging the closet.

Before deciding, spend a week noticing what frustrates you. Do you struggle to find things, to reach high shelves, or to close the door? Are certain items always on the floor? These small observations tell us whether you need better organization, more volume or both, and that shapes the plan.

It is also worth asking how much of what is stored is truly needed. Seasonal clothing, formal wear and items worn rarely might live elsewhere, in a hall cabinet or a storage area, freeing the main closet for daily use. Clearing out what no longer fits or gets worn is not a requirement, but it often makes better use of whatever new space you create.

Measuring what you really have

The first step is to measure carefully. Record the width, depth and height of the closet, the door opening, and any obstacles such as a light fixture, a vent, an access panel or a sloped ceiling under stairs. Note where electrical outlets and switches sit, since they may influence where a rod or drawer can go.

Then measure what needs to live there. Hanging clothes come in different lengths. Shirts and jackets need less vertical room than dresses and robes. Folded items stack in drawers or shelves, and shoes, bags and accessories each take their own kind of space. Counting by category makes it easier to size the system.

Our measurements and site conditions page explains why exact dimensions matter and how existing conditions can alter a plan. A quarter inch can decide whether a drawer opens or a door swings, so careful measuring early saves frustration later.

• Measure width, depth and height at several points, since walls are rarely perfectly square.
• Note the door width, swing direction and any trim that narrows the opening.
• Record the location of lights, vents, outlets and access panels.
• Separate your clothing by type: long hanging, short hanging, folded and shoes.
• Photograph the closet before emptying it so you remember what worked.

Making better use of the closet you have

The simplest improvement is to use the full height. A double rod gives two layers of short hanging space and can nearly double capacity for shirts, pants and skirts. A high shelf above the rod holds items used rarely, and a low shelf or drawer unit makes use of the floor zone.

Different parts of the closet suit different functions. A long hanging zone near one end holds dresses and coats. Shelves for sweaters work better than drawers in a narrow closet because they need no clearance to open. Shoe racks on the wall or the back of the door get footwear off the floor.

Adjustable systems give you the most flexibility, because you can shift shelves and rods as your wardrobe changes. Our storage and closet systems guide explains the common types, from simple wire shelving to built in cabinetry, and what each one suits.

A closet system also needs a realistic view of weight and wear. Wire shelving is light and airy, laminate shelves look finished, and solid wood cabinetry feels substantial but takes more room and cost. Ask how each option handles heavy loads, humidity and daily handling, and whether parts can be replaced or adjusted later without removing the entire installation.

Doors that give you more access

The door often steals more space than people realize. A standard swinging door blocks part of the opening whenever it is open, and a pair of bifold doors leaves a narrow gap in the middle, so you can only see half of the closet at a time. Both choices make it harder to use the full width.

Alternatives open up access. A pair of sliding doors lets you reach either half but never the whole width at once. Pocket doors disappear into the wall when open, and a single wide swinging door gives full access if there is clearance. Removing the door in favor of a curtain or open front is another route in a low traffic area.

Our doors and hardware guide explains the types and what they mean for space, noise and daily use. Always check how the new door will swing into the room, since a closet that opens into a bedroom crowded with furniture can be frustrating.

Borrowing space from a neighboring room

If the closet really cannot hold what you need, look at what sits next to it. A hallway, a second bedroom, a bathroom or an unused alcove might have a few feet to spare. Moving a closet wall even slightly can transform a cramped space into a comfortable walk in.

Changing a wall is a bigger decision, because it affects the adjacent room, the electrical wiring, possible air vents and maybe the structure. Some walls carry load and others do not, and which is which is a planning question to answer with the proper professionals and your city before any design is fixed.

Our wall removal basics guide explains how to think about walls, and our cramped primary suite page deals with a related problem, where a closet, bath and bedroom all compete for space. Often the strongest result comes from planning them together.

When space is borrowed, the neighboring room should not suffer. Taking two feet from a hallway may be unnoticeable, while taking the same from a small bedroom may leave no space for a bed. Draw the revised plan to scale, place the furniture back in, and walk through it in your mind. This simple exercise prevents solving one problem by creating another.

Reach in or walk in: choosing the type

A reach in closet has a single opening and everything is seen from the door. It is efficient and fits many bedrooms, but its depth is limited, and the corners can be hard to use. A walk in closet lets you step inside, so shelves can line several walls and the central floor offers dressing space.

A walk in needs a minimum area to work. Too small, and it becomes a narrow corridor where doors, drawers and people collide. The aisle needs room to turn and to open drawers fully, and any island or bench adds still more. Sketching the plan to scale reveals the real requirements.

Sometimes a hybrid works well. A wide reach in with shelves on both sides and a short walk in portion near the middle can give most of the benefits in less space. Others turn a small bedroom into a dressing room with open wardrobes. Think about how you dress and where you stand when you do.

Seating is a small luxury that costs little space. A narrow bench or ottoman gives you a place to put on shoes, and a mirror on the back of a door or a wall saves a trip to the bathroom. If two people share the closet, consider dividing it clearly so each has a full zone, and plan where shared items like luggage and linens will go.

Lighting, ventilation and materials

Closets often have poor lighting, which makes dark colors blend together and hides things at the back. A fixture over the center of the room, plus lighting along shelves or rods, makes everything visible. In a walk in, think about light that is bright but not harsh, so colors look true. Our lighting layers guide explains how to combine different types of light.

In a warm humid climate, ventilation matters in a closet just as it does in a bathroom. Stale or damp air can lead to musty odors and mildew on fabric and leather. Ask how air will move through the space, whether a vent or return will serve it, and whether any outside wall or exterior door nearby affects humidity.

Materials should handle humidity as well. Solid, well finished shelving and hardware that does not rust perform better over time. Our indoor air and materials guide describes how material choices influence the air in a home.

Drawers, shelves and the details that matter

Drawers keep folded items tidy and visible, but they need clearance to open, and they take floor space. Shelves are lighter on space and work well for items like sweaters and bags. A mix of both gives balance, and shallow drawers for small items such as jewelry, belts and socks help keep things from getting lost.

Details make the difference. Soft close glides, felt lined trays, pull out rails for pants and ties, and a pull down rod for high hanging space are the sort of features that turn a closet into a joy to use. Decide which ones matter to you, so you invest in daily convenience rather than decoration.

Remember that heavy items need strong support. Shelves loaded with folded jeans, shoes or luggage put weight on the wall, so fastenings and wall backing matter. When walls are opened during a remodel, solid backing can be added so shelves, rods and cabinets are secure.

Closet planning inside a larger remodel

A closet seldom stands alone. It sits beside a bedroom, a bathroom and a hallway, and changes to one affect the others. If you are already planning a bathroom update or a new layout for the bedroom, the closet should be part of that conversation. Our planning a primary suite update page explains how these spaces fit together.

If storage is short across the home, not only in one closet, look at the whole picture. The storage planning in remodels page and no storage in the home offer ways to spread storage around.

In a larger project such as a whole home renovation, closets can be reshaped as part of a new layout. That is the easiest moment to borrow space, because walls are open and decisions can be coordinated.

Wiring and lighting should be settled at the same time. A closet that gets a new light, an outlet for a steamer or a switch that turns on when the door opens is much nicer to use. Those items are easy to plan while walls are open and awkward to add afterward, so list them early. Even a basic closet benefits from a well placed fixture and a switch you can find in the dark.

Condos, townhomes and small footprints

In a condo or townhome, space is tight, and every wall counts. Some walls are shared with neighbors, and others contain building systems. Your association may require approval before you modify walls, relocate switches or change anything that could affect neighbors.

The good news is that cabinetry and systems inside an existing closet often involve fewer approvals than moving walls. Still, ask what your building requires, and ask about working hours, elevator use and delivery rules before planning installation.

Small footprints reward careful design. Using full height storage, narrow shelves, shallow drawers and good lighting can make a modest closet feel generous. A plan that accounts for how you actually live can beat a larger closet that is badly arranged.

Look up as well as across. Ceilings in many homes are higher than the closet shelf, and a second tier of storage above the main shelf can hold boxes and luggage. A small step stool kept in the closet makes this space usable. In a shared building, keep heavy items low and light items high, so that nothing is awkward to lift down.

Finally, give the plan a trial run. Before ordering anything, empty the closet, lay out the major items on the bedroom floor in the arrangement you intend, and see whether they would fit. Painter's tape on the wall can show rod heights and shelf positions. A rehearsal like this costs nothing and often reveals that one shelf is too high or one drawer too deep before anything is built.

How we approach the conversation

You call and tell us about the property, the closet and the rooms around it. We talk through layout, materials, storage, lighting and existing conditions, including what could be moved. Then we build a plan and selections around your priorities, and prepare for construction by going through the plan and the information needed before work begins.

Bring your measurements, photographs and a list of what has to fit. If you live in a condo or an association, ask about approvals early. For permits and structural questions, your city building department sets the rules, and we do not state them as facts here.

You can learn more about our approach on the design and planning page. When you are ready to talk, the call button on this page is the simplest way to reach us.

Questions and answers